Get creative! I don’t do dioramas myself but that’s a whole new world of crafting for your favorite characters if you’re interested. Lots of Nendoroids come with books of some sort and I’ve stolen one from the Patchouli Nendoroid I already owned. Also consider that Nendoroids around 300 or older have slightly different shaped face plates and face plates from around 100 or older are completely incompatible with new style Nendoroids.Īs for accessories, 1/12 scale doll or miniature accessories work great! I bought a 1/12 knife set similar to this one and used glue dots to affix it to her hand for photos. The face maker is a useful tool if you feel comfortable maneuvering it and proxy services. If you feel brave though, paint pens like Posca markers or watercolor pencils are both good tools depending on which you like best. Find a Nendoroid with a face you like or dig through your parts bin. I recommend for first time figure painters to not even attempt to paint a custom face. I made clamps using alligator clips and bamboo skewers to keep the paint from getting smudged while it was drying. You can always go back and touch up areas where your brush slipped.Īnother tip: to prop up parts while they’re drying, you can sometimes get away with poking a q-tip through joint holes like on skirts. Regular matte finish from a craft store will not make it nearly as matte.įor detailed areas, have a steady hand and a small brush or use Tamiya tape. I found this out while working on my second custom that it really is worth it. Super Clear matte! You can see below how much gloss it removes in just 2 coats. This won’t make it perfectly matte like an official Nendoroid, but it will keep the parts from rubbing paint on each other once it’s assembled. No primer used, just painted straight onto the surface.Īfter the paint dries for at least 24 hours you’re going to need to seal it with a matte finish spray paint. Acetone works also but it takes more elbow grease and doesn’t remove primer very well. The great thing about isopropyl alcohol is it will cut through the acrylic and primer without harming the original paint so you’re left with almost exactly the surface you started with. If you make a mistake, isopropyl alcohol is your best friend.
#Yume nikki madotsuki nendroid tv#
Just sit back, put on an anime or tv show you can binge in the background, and go to town. For me, it could take a few sessions to get pieces finished the way I wanted. Always use a small brush and layer your strokes so that the surface is smooth and even. You can be fancy and use an airbrush but for first time projects it can be a huge money investment. The specific brand is unimportant as long as it’s at least craft store quality. What I and most people use is generic acrylic diluted with water to a milky consistency. I’ve found it’s pretty unnecessary to prime Nendoroid parts, the paint will stick smoothly either way. Megumi Kato for skirt & legs (bootleg, $12.62) Osomatsu Matsuno for torso (bootleg, $11.36) Madoka (yukata ver) for the face (used, already owned) Specifically, these are the parts I used: It might be overkill but it helps me keep my ideas together during times when I’m too busy to work on it consistently.
When I make my Nendoroids I keep an excel sheet of items I want for each character and highlight the items I’ve already bought. When I made my Madotsuki it was most cost efficient to use some bootleg parts which you can try at your own risk. I highly recommend using the new service Chibi Chop Shop for individual parts or searching Nendoroid split forums, but used nendoroids sold on eBay, AmiAmi, Mandarake, etc. The first step is to gather parts from other Nendoroids. So I just finished painting a custom madotsuki nendoroid and I’m gonna post all my progress pics and leave tips and instructions for anyone else that wants to make customs!